Dubai.

Apparently, the winds reverse directions with the seasons because in the summertime it only take 14.5 hours LA to Dubai, whereas in the winter it takes over 16.I am traveling with a Rotarian who has visited Afghanistan 13 times previously - she averages about 2 trips per year. More about Fary and the Magical Jalalabad-San Diego Sister Cities organization forthcoming, but it will be sufficient to say for the moment that traveling in her company is easy, fun, efficient, and drama-free. Even though one member of our company was delayed in Atlanta, Fary deftly manouevered a flight plan change across three airlines in three different countries for our stranded friend, as well as an overnight stay in a Kabul guest house and a driver - in less than 15 minutes on a cell phone in the airport. She didn't even break a sweat. She is a nurse, Persian by way of England, (so both her accents are lovely), gracious, worldly, well tailored, trim and cheerful. When I am "of a certain age", I want to be just like her.

New projects on the horizon. Seems the ultrasound machine is still not operating in the National Teaching Hospital. New Objective: get the damn ultrasound machine operating and train a technician - preferably a recent medical school graduate. Someone with enough training, who is young and excited to make a difference and not too old to be allergic to learning. This is not an entirely selfless project. If I can get this beheamoth functioning, I (and by extension, you) will be rewarded for my efforts with baby pictures.

It is 100 degrees here at night in Dubai. Stepping outside is like stepping into a sauna. Exactly the kind of weather I would love if being mostly naked wouldn't result in immediate arrest and deportation. The airport is gigantic - frightening, opeulent, electric. Designed to awe and intimidate. If you have ever been to the most grandiose hotels in vegas you have a sense of the total fealty to commerce and luxury that permeates this space. Only these are designed to accomodate an order of magnitude more people, the massive halls echo instead of ring, and no booze is available. It's Ramadan.

We were reminded of this as we took a seat in the nearby La Meridian Hotel. "It's a pity," Fary said. "They make the BEST martini here!"

We were ushered to our oasis by a Lady Cab. Because we are two women unescorted, we were directed to a line of pink taxis driven by matronly, hijabed, pink-smocked lady drivers. This detail of local flavor totally escaped me last time, as I was in the company of Dr. Dave. We listened to "Radio Virgin" - a top - 40 club hits station, cranking Kesha's TICK TOCK. Which frankly startled me.

Dubai is a city of extremes and excesses and basically embodies everything I find indefensible and unsustainable about the human species. It scares the living shit out of me. Which is good, because I am a smartmouthed, uppity bitch and fear, genuine fear, is one of the few things guaranteed to keep my hippie ass in line and out of trouble. This is NOT a free country. Please purchase Gucci bikinis to wear on the novelty palm-tree shaped man-made islands, but understand that if you hold hands on one of their startlingly white beaches you will be arrested. I will have 24 hours here (and a hotel room - thanks Fary!) on the return trip. Fary recommends that I take the desert Safari, but I think I will just haunt La Meridian, go to the spa, and sleep in my frosty, air conditioned room until its time to go.

At least in Afghanistan, there is no pretense about how fucking medieval it can all be. It's part of the charm, really. What You See Is What You Get. As opposed to Dubai, where What You See Has Been Engineered To Be The Most Expensive In The World And Is Polished To A Mirror Shine By Imported Slave Labor.

Next up, Kabul. I can't wait to get to the Taj!